There’s something romantic about the idea of people leaving everything safe and known to try a new life out west – particularly in 1900. Big dreams, big plans and, often, even bigger peril. Tonopah, Nevada was built on those dreams. Once a silver boom town, this quiet desert spot, set between Reno and Las Vegas, has seen its share of triumphs and trials. But regardless of which way the pendulum has swung, the historic Mizpah Hotel still welcomes travelers.
Originally opened for business in 1908, this “haunted” historic hotel (more on that later), has been the oasis in a dusty and silver-caked Nevada desert. Grand in the early days, the hotel has recently gotten a healthy renovation. But rather than trying to make it into the next Las Vegas resort, the new owners, Fred and Nancy Cline, took it back to its original glory. And it shines all the more for it.
I’m not going to lie – the hotel is in the middle of nowhere, and the town has seen better days. The most recent census has it with a population of just under 2,500. The hospital recently shut down. There isn’t much mining anymore (though a solar project outside of town looks promising). If you are looking for a hot spot, Tonopah is not it (unless, of course, you visit in August).
But there’s a feeling that things might be swinging up again for this town. Yes, there are boarded up historic buildings with chains on the door, but there’s also a saloon that’s still running, a western gear store, mom and pop restaurants, a mining camp museum, and a fantastic new craft brewery that is also known for BBQ (the Clines are also part of that business). So, will you feel like you are entering a ghost town? Yes. Is there still good reason to make this off-the-beaten-path destination part of your Nevada itinerary? Yes!
Let’s start with the room that we actually stayed in: Lady in Red Suite.
This is actually where the ghost story starts. The Lady in Red was a woman who brought “comfort” to the miners of Tonopah. She was murdered one night outside of the room she used on the fifth floor of the Mizpah (502) by, it is assumed, a jealous lover who didn’t want to share her attentions. People have reported hearing footsteps and shaking chandeliers, and, occasionally, finding a fallen pearl in the bedroom.
Sadly, I can’t say we were visited by the Lady in Red. Though I found out that The Ghost Adventures team went out to the hotel, and now I have to find out if they had more luck (BTW this is the second time that we’ve stayed in a room that had GA investigators in it at some point. The first was at the Cosmopolitan in Old Town, San Diego). Update: Here’s the link to their discoveries.
However, what we did find was a spectacularly redone room. The lush fabrics, rich antiques and the attention to detail had me wandering through every nook. From the antique dress dummy to the armoire closet, I was in love with the décor. It really did feel like stepping back into another time (only without the need for a corset).
The bathroom was a very useful combination of 1900s style and modern day amenities. The clawfoot-like tub had a terrific, and must appreciated shower, and I’m only sorry that I didn’t bring bubble bath to really take advantage of the bath.
While I’d be curious to see the other rooms of the hotel, if we return, I’d be tempted to return to this particular one. Plus, the bed was ridiculously comfortable, and after a long day in the car, you know how important that is!
After thoroughly exploring the room, we headed out to see more of the other floors of the Mizpah Hotel. We were not disappointed!
There are sitting areas just outside of the Lady in Red Suite (and in the place where the lady in question was supposedly killed). Comfortable and stylishly period furnishings are set out at various points so that you can relax and/or wait for the rest of your party. Even the skylights had details too beautiful to miss!
We explored the lower level where the Jack Dempsey Room lives. It’s exclusively an event room now, so we couldn’t go in, but like kids outside of a candy store, Andy and I eagerly peered through windows to get a glimpse. Dark woods and handsome engravings stood out, and I can only imagine what a “dress” event would be like in such Old West grandeur.
From there, we went back to the lobby and lounge level. Throughout the area, they have scattered antique gaming equipment. From the vintage H. C. Evans gambling wheel (1939) to the old time cash registers, there was something to capture our attention. Even the old safe has been put back into service – although now it’s the perfect space for their gift shop.
And yes, being Nevada, there were working slot machines in the lobby.
The lounge/bar area is actually a lovely place to either get drinks or eat dinner (the same menu is served in the bar as is served in the main restaurant. We opted to hang out here for dinner and learn more about the historic Nevada town from the bar keep (who was lovely and happy to give us the scoop on everything from the town to the ghost upstairs). They have a nice selection wines, and we kicked back to indulge in some burgers and the Pittman Pot Pie (Note: the pot pie is huge!!!! and I didn’t get even vaguely close to finishing it – but it was really tasty and uniquely presented). Andy had a locally brewed beer, while I had the Cline Pinot Noir – both paired well with the food, and were reasonably priced.
There were a number of other people milling about in the bar and the lounge (some were guests in the hotel, while others just came in from town for the warmth of food, wine and conversation). It was a relaxed atmosphere, and it was a great way to unwind after a long day on the road.
The next morning, we made it our mission to visit the Pittman Cafe (named after the U.S. Senator). You can choose to eat at the lunch counter, or wander into the dining room. You get the feeling from the conversation that the cafe attracts a group of regulars, as well as travelers who are staying at the hotel. Food is plentiful, and, again, the prices are reasonable.
After breakfast, we wandered out to explore the town. The Tonopah Historic Mining Park is just in back of the Mizpah hotel. There is a small entrance fee if you want to go up into the park. As it was only 25 degrees at the time, and I was still recovering from a torn ligament in my ankle, we decided not to go up into the mines. Next time we are in Nevada!
Tonopah, Nevada is a curious place. It has both the feeling of ghost town and the feeling of a town ready to rise again. Staying at the Mizpah Hotel was a comfortable (and often fun) experience (and I very much enjoyed the elegant touches throughout the hotel). I’m certainly curious to see how the investments in the town pay off. All in all, I’m hopeful that this is one place that we revisit in the years to come. If you want to see more pictures of the town itself, stay tuned to my Instagram.
Details
Where: Mizpah Hotel, 100 Main Street, Tonopah, Nevada 89049
Cost: Currently between $99 and $160 plus tax (check the website for seasonal changes in rates)
Wi-Fi: Yes! It’s included in the room rate. Its strength depends a little bit on where you are in the hotel, but in the end I was able to get online when I needed it.
Details
Where: 100 Main Street, Tonopah, Nevada 89049
Cost: Currently between $99 and $160 plus tax (check the website for seasonal changes in rates)
Wi-Fi: Yes! It’s included in the room rate. Its strength depends a little bit on where you are in the hotel, but in the end I was able to get online when I needed it.